Couture Week

Every year, all eyes are on Paris when couture week rolls around. The absolute best of the best is expected and both editors and fashion lovers alike await impatiently for nuanced and luxurious silhouettes to appear on the runway.

This year, though, things were different.

As streetwear and couture have become increasingly synonymous, the industry is struggling to maintain it’s grasp on what couture has traditionally meant in the past and the result is an amass of jumbled sportswear and pre-fall. Although I am not a stickler for tradition per se, I am indeed an advocate for upholding the standards of luxury, and afraid of what materials, people, and design will be sacrificed by the designers who are trying and failing so utterly hard to mimic the likes of Vetements and Proenza Schouler in their pursuit to execute quality streetwear pieces.

Should there not be a place for these designers at Paris Couture week? I believe there should absolutely be a place for them, but do not believe that other brands should be so quick to lessen their own couture images for the sake of homogenizing themselves with what is now becoming the high fashion “norm.”

If this is the direction that designers are choosing to go, in effort to “street wear-ize” their fashion lines, emotion and craft are going to have to reign over the overall tone of the collections instead of mimicry and watered down couture. Let us hope that couture week can be a platform for these ideas and concepts to evolve into the rare air that luxury should and has the potential to still represent.

There is no reason why the continuous drops of clothing out of collections and genius fashion calendar planning (such as Vetements) cannot also be a scaled down version of the calendar for every other major fashion brand.  Less frequent shows (forget pre-fall and resort wear bs) to combine fashion lines into polished and see now buy now concepts will rid of over-production, and make room for the previously mentioned necessities of creativity and emotion driven designs.

Valentino was a perfect example of genuine creativity expressed in a rather abnormal design aesthetic for the brand. Pierpalo Piccioli brought a truly sentimental show to Paris.

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Valentino Couture Fall 2017

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Valentino Couture Fall 2017

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Valentino Couture Fall 2017

 

The rest, such as Dundas and Dior, fell sadly short of this.

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Dundas Couture Fall 2017

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Dior Couture Fall 2017

 

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